Unlike other medieval towns now become tourist attractions, Graziano Visconti has the distinction of being born for tourism. From the vision of Giuseppe Visconti di Modrone in the early 1900s, the medieval castle is restored with its surroundings, to create what would be one of the first holiday resorts, complete with a ghost!
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We arrive at Graziano Visconti, 13 km from Piacenza, in the late afternoon. We find parking very close to one of the entrances of the village and go for a first walk around. Very few people on the streets, the shops are closing, except for the restaurants and the bar. The last time I came I was in elementary school and I have to say that not much has changed, although I remember it much larger, truth is that you can see it all in little more than twenty minutes! I take a few photos, then we buy some pizzas to eat in the camper and I am pleasantly surprised by the price, which was definitely like a pizzeria in village and not in a tourist resort. We spent a quiet night and early in the morning i start my new tour for getting some pictures. The village is so deserted that the squirrels run around undisturbed…
I take my time looking at the interesting permanent exhibition of agricultural equipment housed in the Cortevecchia. I go for breakfast at the bar, even here the prices are more than normal and I wait patiently for the shops to open and people to get in the streets.
Shops open, visitors begin to arrive and the village comes to life. We join a guided tour of the castle, which costs 7 euro per person, but it is a pleasant walk of more than an hour inside the Visconti’s private property, otherwise not open to visitors and an opportunity to become familiar with the history of the place .
Our guide initially tells us about the rare flora and fauna of the park, as we get closer to the castle we pass to the historical part, which is really interesting because we learn that the medieval village was actually built, around the existing castle, in the beginning of 1900, in the middle of the industrial revolution, as a tourist attraction to show to its visitors how the artisans used to work by hand. In fact, the whole village was made ​​up of small workshops for the working of iron, glass, wood etc..
Below: the castle’s gate with the classic snake, symbol of Milano and of the Visconti’s family.
Below, two details of the castle courtyard. On the left one of the curiosities of the place, the inscription found on various walls of Grazzano Visconti, which spelled backwards says “Impipatene e guarda in alto” (do not care and look up) which reflects the philosophy of the Duke, who had been heavily criticized for his project. In the picture on the right, the mystery of the burg, one of the many statues of Aloisa, the ghost of the village, patron saint of lovers.
Unfortunately the castle not be visited inside, but even only the ride in the park around the building is rewarding and the story of the guide always very interesting and full of small curiosities.
After the tour in the park, we go to visit the Gothic church which they kindly open for us and so we can take a peek inside.
Below right a detail of the painting found outside one of the village’s buildings where you can see a portrait of Giuseppe Visconti di Modrone.
The most famous statue of Aloisa is located on the main street of the village. Married to a Captain of Militia, died as a result of jealousy at her husband’s betrayal, and since then she wanders in the castle and the park: “I am Aloisa and I bring Love and scent to the beautiful who donate their smile Grazzano Visconti”… many the girls who make floral tributes to the statue of the ghost, that must have inspired the authors of Shrek 🙂
Thus ends our visit to Grazzano Visconti, a beautiful day spent really well! One last thing, outside the city walls, there is a beautiful church that is worth visiting (pictured below) More information on the official website of Grazzano Visconti And the site of the organizers of the guided tours (Italian only)
About practicalities, we parked undisturbed along the walls of the village [44.93250,9.67121] where it is easy to find parking after 6pm and before 10am. On the map I marked two more points where larger vehicles can park for free. There are also two huge parking near the village entrances, 10€ per day for motorhomes, guarded from 10am to 7pm.
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