Mani : Land of great writers

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stoupaIn Messinian Mani, within a few miles distance, there are three places not to be missed for lovers of travel literature. The beach where Nikos Kazantzakis lived and worked with the real Zorbas. The house where Patrick Leigh Fermor lived until the end of his life and the place where he spread Bruce Chatwin ashes …

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kalogria We can not say for sure if it was faith, the beauty of nature or the particular energy in the air. The fact is that only a few kilometers away and at different times have lived in this area three of the great writers.

kalogria 01kalogria 02Nikos Kazantzakis (1883 – 1957)
is the author of books like Zorba the Greek and The Last Temptation of Christ, both of which also become successful films. And it is here on the beach Kalogria , just outside Stoupa where Kazantzakis has spent more than a year working with the person who would give him the inspiration for his famous book. Alexis Zorbas was an existing person, although in reality it was called Yorgos, and he had no idea that he was destined to become the world’s most famous of the “literary greeks”, even more after being impersonated by the unforgettable Anthony Quinn in 1964 film.

In the picture above you can sea on the left the house of Kazantzakis.

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The beach of Kalogria had the misfortune of being named one of the best beaches in Greece and since then has been taken by assault! The result? Five rows of umbrellas and no place to stay… shame.

GPS:
N 36.850926 E 22.258207

fermour_02fermour_01Patrick Leigh Fermor (1915 – 2011)
is probably the least known of the three for the most. In England, however he is considered one of the greatest travel writers of all times. A character who has influenced the history not only with his books, but also with his service during World War II when, at the side of the resistance, he was the protagonist of the abduction of General Kreipe in Crete.
He soon began his career as a tireless traveler when, 18 years old, he traveled on foot from Hook in Holland to Istanbul to continue later to Greece.
In his literary work includes books as A Time to Keep Silence and Mani – Travels in the Southern Peloponnese . Wich is the place where he decided to retire and live until the end of his life.
The house is located just outside Kardamyli in a dream location and was donated to the Benaki Museum foundation, with the purpose of being used for hosting writers and researchers to help them in their work, as was the tradition when Fermor was alive.
Rumors say that at this time they are shooting scenes for a movie with Ethan Hawke at the house.
GPS: N 36.878556 E 22.240206

chatwin_01chatwin_02Bruce Chatwin (1940 – 1989)
another traveler and writer who needs no introduction. He had been so fascinated by the beauty of Mani where, thanks to the hospitality of P. L. Fermor, he had stopped for long periods and it went so far as to ask his friend to scatter his ashes right there in Kardamyli after his death. The selected location is magical, a small Byzantine church a few kilometers on foot from the Fermor’s house, just outside the village of Chora. There is not a plaque or inscription for those who want to bring tribute, the reference point is the olive tree in front of the church.
For those who want to go there with their motorhome, I advice those who have a car longer than 6 meters to park in front of the school at Exochori and walk to the church, following the road that starts right next to the school, pass by a small clearing that you will find on the left, continue straight till the last house of the village and then turn left on the path that will lead you straight to the church of Agios Nikolas.

GPS: N 36.903299 E 22.266866