Eating out in Greece is very common. The cost is affordable, quality is good, conviviality a tradition. The cuisine is a blend of oriental and European cooking, fairly close, though less refined, to the southern Italian cuisine. Motorhomers or not, it is definitely worth discovering local flavors.
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Eating hours are very Mediterranean. Lunch begins after 1pm and often ends after 4pm. Dinner starts from 9.30 and rarely restaurant kitchens close earlier than 1a.m. In fact in most places you can find something to eat at virtually all hours of day and night.
A typical meal at the restaurant starts with appetizers (orektikà) that are served in small plates of various sizes at the center of the table and are shared by everyone present.
Restaurants and taverns have an endless list of appetizers that, unlike in most other countries, include salads, cheeses, chips and various side dishes. Most of the ‘creamy’ starters, like taramosalata, tirosalata, tzatziki, melitzanosalata etc.. can also be found at the supermarket under different brands (usually in the dairy department).
Following is the main course, but it is not compulsory to order it, you can stop with appetizers if you like. Also, if you wish, yo may ask to be brought a portion of a main dish, such as a Musaka or Pastitsio, along with appetizers to share as the rest.
The meal ends with fruit and / or sweet, often offered by the restaurant. Coffee is not served by restaurants / taverns.
There are different types of places that serve food, each with its own peculiarities.
Besides traditional restaurants (Estiatòria) and taverns that offer a full menu, there are Psitopolìa that specialize in grilled meats accompanied by few side dishes like French fries and some salads.
Suvlazìdika serving the Greek version of kebabs (ghiro) with pita bread, and the traditional Suvlàki that can be prepared with various types of meat. In these places you can also find the inevitable chips and at least a couple of salads on the menu. You can have your meal seated or take away and eat it in the comfort of your camper. The cost is comparable to a fast food restaurant eating though theoretically a bit healthier.
When you order your suvlaki or your ghiros pitta you can specify whether you want it complete (ap’ola) or without something, like onions, tzatziki, paprika etc.. Vegetarians can order a wrapped pitta without meat, which is replaced with french fries. In practice, each pitta is custom made.
Ouzerì or Mezedopolìa, serves accompanying the ‘Ouzo’ or Raki (which may also be called Tsicudià or Tsìpuro depending on the where you are and the type of distillate) mixed dishes and various appetizers. As a rule in Greece you do not drink without eating something and this something can be from a couple of olives to a full meal.
A small note about wine. In Greece they make a few excellent wines and that’s a fact! The problem is that good wines are hard to find, you must know them and they cost at least three times more than a European wine of comparable quality. Therefore at the restaurant drink beer! By the way, try the Kaiser. You can also try the house wine (in Greek hima) usually it is fairly cheap and drinkable. In some places you can even find Retsina, a traditional Greek wine made of white wine, usually of poor quality flavored with pine resin … some like it!
Another thing. If you have the pleasure, not uncommon to be invited by a Greek for a raki, an ouzo or even out to eat, when it is time to pay the bill, do the courteous gesture to offer or to pay your part. But keep in mind that usually here, He who invites pays. So if you are told to leave it alone, do not insist. In some places, as in Crete for example, you would make a ‘mortal’ and irreparable offense to those who invited you. The tradition of Greek hospitality says that only very close friends are allowed to offer in the territory of another. In any case, if you really want to make your part, you can insist on offering a new round of rakes after a while or to propose to go somewhere else where you will pay for something like an ice cream or a coffee.
Finally some ‘Italian’ advice: pizza and pasta can be a big disappointment. In many “pizzarie and spachetterie or spagetterie” how often they call them here, pasta resembles a sticky cream and pizza is pretty much fried and navigate in oil. Before you order, check out the the tables around you to be aware of what awaits you! 🙂
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