After so many days in tranquility, it’s our turn to experience the windy face of Crete. You may have read or heard that you should be prepared to encounter wind in Crete (and generally in the islands of the Aegean sea), but it is rarely mentioned that the wind, especially the northern one, the Meltemi, could be so fierce, that it is almost impossible to endure it. As this was our case, we had to find a solution!
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When the windstorm started, we were in the plain of Messara. The wind was blowing from the north to the south so we thought that it could be a good idea to pass the Asteroussia mountains with the hope that the big massif will protect the southern coast from the strong winds.
It was right! When we arrived in Tsoutsouros [34.98433,25.28163] , a small sea-side village, the atmosphere was completely different. Our camper van was no more shaken by the wind, the constant whistling noise was stopped and even the sea was calm! At first sight Tsoutsouros is a old-fashioned village. The tourist development is limited to a scattering of rooms for rent and some tavernas. The beach is good enough with plenty places to park just in front of the sea and free showers for the bathers, who are mainly pensioners and kids. But, as I learn later, this village is associated with some paranormal phenomena with ‘hidden secrets’, gate of the underworld, entrance of the labyrinth, magic energy, etc. We just enjoyed a good sleep.
On our way to Arvi, we spotted some other places that would be good for spending a night, like Keratokampos, but to be honest, there is nothing exhilarating in this coast full of the white plastic sheet of the greenhouses. It is rather a pity because there are many kilometers of nice and deserted beaches. On the contrary Arvi, known as the main banana growing area in Crete, is to be avoided; there is no space for parking and the beach is below average.
From Arvi we return to the main road which connects Ano Viannos with Ierapetra. The wind continued to blow so we decided to take advantage of the sheltered coast just one more day. We stopped first in Tertsa, a tiny village with a superb beach, few tavernas and a relaxed hippie-style atmosphere, that reminded us Matala and Sougia, but less crowded.
Despite the fact that few people seem to know this ‘treasure’, it was not easy to park. We found a not so convenient spot [34.99152,25.53211] before the taverns. Otherwise there are few places for parking at the end of the village.
The main tourist resort of the area is Myrtos, less than 6 km. east of Tertsa. [35.00335,25.58056]. It is a nice village with all the facilities required for family holidays. It is the perfect place to be when the rest of the south-east Crete faces ‘end of the world’ situations because of the wind BUT there are some minor problems to resolve like the lack of parking space in the village (we weren’t the only desperate holidaymakers seeking refuge from the wind) and the fact that a section of the main street of Myrtos (direction to Ierapetra) is so narrow that it could easily turn into a nightmare. Nevertheless we found a decent place to park just on the beach [35.00335,25.58056] waiting for the windstorm to end.
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