Frangokastello is a medieval castle built by the Venetians, a few kilometers from Chora Sfakion, in a stunning location by the sea. Being, however, outside the tourist routes, it is a place not crowded even in high season, with a remarkable beach and the possibility to stop overnight: a real gem! Although there would be a small problem, or rather two…
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To continue our counterclockwise trip around the coast and get to Chora Sfakion from Sougia, there are two alternatives: driving 120 km going up to Chania and then getting around Lefka Ori mountains or take the ferry, easy solution, but at a cost of around 75 euro. We choose the first option, which also suits us for taking care of a couple of things we had to do in the city and with the opportunity, to get fuel at a decent price and shop in a big supermarket. When we finally get to Chora Sfakion, in the picture above, we immediately realize that however beautiful, it does not seem very suitable for motorhomes, so we do not even give it a try and prefer to go on to Frangokastello, 12 km to the east.
We arrive in time to visit the castle, quite empty, but in excellent condition. We leave our campervan in the car park of the castle [35.18200,24.23450] where we will stay for the night. During the opening hours of the castle there is also a toilet open, which is located in the northeast corner of the parking lot, which is useful for emptying the WC cassette.
First slight problem: are you afraid of ghosts?
Between May and June, just after sunrise, it can happen to see shadows of human shape, on foot or on horseback, arriving from the east in single file towards the castle and then get lost in the sea. The phenomenon, with the name of Drosoulites, which lasts about ten minutes, has been studied and classified as a mirage. The popular tradition makes it correspond with the anniversary of a great battle which took place here in May of 1828, when more than 300 local warriors died fighting against the Turks.
Second slight problem: are you afraid of vampires?
So many mosquitoes and so hungry, I happened to see only in wetlands and rice paddies. Small problem taking the right precautions, however, to bear in mind. It seemed strange to us seeing everybody leaving the beach just after sunset, and the answer came buzzing after a few minutes…
In the morning, we do not see the ghosts and so we leave the castle behind us taking the road along the sea, following the signs to Orthi Ammo beach. After a few tens of meters the asphalt ends, but the road continues in excellent condition and arrive at a monastery on the left. It doesn’t look in good conditions, but we visit it anyway. The most interesting thing we find is a water tap near the entrance from which we refill the tank [35.18140,24.24055].
But what we see and excites us is a very long beach in front of us, wild and with very few people: Orthi Ammo. We follow the dirt road that goes above it and even if we did not stop for the night, it seems to me that there should not be any problems, being careful not to stop in front of the few houses for rent. The beach is a wonder, a paradise for nudists, but not only.
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